Pompeii

A new excursion today, a trip on the local train to Pompeii. Quick walk down to the train station and hop on the train, takes about forty minutes to get there.  There is a "dd" (fast) train, which only makes 4 stops but we got on the one that hit all 14 stops.  Cost 8.80 return.  The train stops 100 yards from the entrance to Pompeii. You can see the ruins from the train.  Outside the station the hawkers start their selling game.  Bottles of water, souvenirs, books, tour guides.  They had everything for a price.  

After a great recommendation from a British couple from Nottinghamshire we decided to book the 2 hour guided tour with an English speaking guide.  12 euros each, but well worth the money.  It took them about 45 minutes to get organized and we were off.  Tip:  they had lots of fresh water fountains for water inside, you need it, and there were lots of toilets that didn't cost anything.  

We were her family and she was mamma.  She had a beautiful orange umbrella for us to traipse around behind.

Not only did she know the history of Pompeii, she put a nice touching and funny realism to the tragedy that was Pompeii.  20,000 people died.  They figure 90% of them from the ashes, day turned to night. People were racing around trying to escape and couldn't see a thing.  They died where they were in the middle of the street, in their kitchens.  And then the next day the survivors came back to look for family, they were so devastated that a lot of them thinking they were safe lay down to sleep where they thought their homes were.  And then the gas came, most of the survivors then died from the gases erupting out of Mt Vesuvius.  They found them in sleeping positions.  A lot of these bodies are on display in different museums around the world.  I couldn't take a picture of the bodies, it was still too sad.  It was a little shocking to see the real side of a book and story I had read so long ago.

Pompeii was home to 20,000 people 2000 years ago.  Aurora only had 15,000 people in it when we moved in in 1985.  This was a huge town, with temples, theatre, and a large coliseum.  And mama's favourite spot - the brothel.  A lot of the girls were from other islands and didn't speak the language so they had pictures that the men could point to, to show what they liked.  Some of these pictures were still on the walls. 

The first coliseum

The opera

These were ovens,

The pizza ovens

A house

A mansion, over 10,000 sq feet.

On the way home we needless to say stopped for a drink at a love bar overlooking the harbour. Hotel excelsior vittorio.

Back to the room, off for dinner, a limoncello for Jim in our favourite market cafe and to top it off a huge fireworks display at 11 pm.

Ciao

Too much limoncello

A very slow start to the day, not sure why? ;). Luckily I had pictures to show Jim how last night progressed. Lol.  I didn't do that!!! Was a a popular refrain from him this morning.  Even when we stopped at the same roadside cafe tonight, he was saying. We were here last night.... Yes we were ... Really...  Yep here's a picture. :)

Sorrento is a beautiful city, the customer service staff have all gone out of their way to learn English.  They have been ever so helpful with suggestions and tips.  The next paragraph is a total vent so feel free to bypass, it was just one guy.  Tips to put in your Things to know about Italy and I am sure a lot of European regional train stations. - 50 cents to get into toilet, exact change, bring your own toilet paper and be prepared for filth

Venting:

We went to the bus/train terminal today, what a bunch of assholios.  We get our ticket and Jim lines up and I think ok I should probably go to the bathroom if we are going on a 1.5 hour bus ride up and down mountains.  Cant find the bathrooms. Go up the stairs, come down the elevator, finally ask at the tobacco shop. And the toilets are broke, have to go upstairs and use the train bathroom.  Follow the directions she gives me.  Hello.  You need a ticket to get to the bathrooms.  Go to the train ticket counter and he tells me to use gate 8 and over I go and open the door.  Down the stairs I go and voila!,...  You have to pay.  I don't have the correct change so back upstairs I go, back to the train guy and ask him for change and back to the door which he has neglected to open.  Bang bang on the door, these 2 guys having coffee look at me like I am nuts.  Hello I am over 50. When you need the bathroom, Clear the track.  Back to the train guy. I am normally a quiet person but this is really frustrating.  How stupido can you be?  Open the Freaking door I yell in English.  He did understand me.  Downstairs I go and omg the dirtiest, most disgusting toilets I have ever seen.  

Off to the Amalfi

We hop on the 1230 bus to Amalfi.  US Hwy 1 is a like a ride at centreville compared to this road.  Up and over mountains, tons of switchbacks with the bus honking its horn constantly to let other drivers know its coming.  The Italian sense of space and reflexes are amazing.  I don't know how many bikers I thought were toast between the bus and the wall on the sea side.  The countryside was amazing, the little town of Postiano is totally tiered. House on top of house going right ip the cliff.  The only flat area was where they built the piers.  white and yellow and red houses, just stunning.

Another 30 minutes and we were off to Amalfi.   After an hour Jim was starting to turn a little green.  So 1st stop when we got off the bus was to find a boat home.  There was a big cruise ship in and lots of boats in the harbour.  

A lovely little square with lots of people wandering up and down, drinking cappuccinos and Jim and I finally broke down and had our 1st gelato, pistachio with some lemon and I had a limoncello with I think a coffee chocolate vanilla.  Delish and very refreshing.  

There were 2 brides getting their pictures on the pier and in town.  Kept expecting to see Michael Corleone.

 There are tons of people going up and down he square along this 15 foot wide cobblestones road.  Next thing we see are cars moving down the road, Jim and I look at each other - oops he's made a mistake.  Nope this is an actual road and somehow these oblivious tourists who don't even seem to notice the cars and vespas remain unscathed.  

"The Cathedral of Amalfi built approximately 1266 was right in the middle of the square.  This monumental complex of the cathedral is testimony to Amalfi's past.  It includes the cloister of paradise, the basilica of the crucifix and the crypt of St Andrew.  The beauty of the art makes the people feel closer to god. Along the side of he cloister one can admire the remain of the ancient Byzantine pulpits of the cathedral from 1174 to 1200, inlaid with precious mosaics."

We hopped on the boat for a wonderful ride home, what a great finish to the trip. On the way there we saw the region for the top and on the way back we were able to view it from the water.

Finished off the night with another lovely meal at an outdoor cafe and then went back up to our market square to do some people watching.  Met another lovely couple from Britain.  Honestly I think there are more Brits in Italy then there are Italians.  The Piazza Tasso was just hopping, even at 12 on a  Sunday locals were there with their children in strollers, on bikes just walking and talking.  

Beautiful Sorrento

Asleep at 230, awake at 730. Up and at em.  Try and go back to sleep.  Coffee in bed. Wow so strong. A little mist over the mountains, beautiful high blue sky. Finally get going around 930. Just going to take it easy today. Which means lots of walking. We find a nice little cafe for an English breakfast, capachinno, fresh squeezed oj, fruit cocktail and a donut  - oops we were expecting a croissant.  Lol.  Still ate it.  

Sorrento, and I'm sure most little towns along this coast are full of little alleys, shops, cafes, jewellery stalls and fresh markets. The colours are wonderful, bright yellows, oranges, reds, blues and greens.  Vespas are zipping in and out everywhere, they don't seem to have any rules, other than helmets.  Even saw kids texting and driving with one hand wiggling in and out of cars and people.  They pass on both sides, in between cars and buses and like to take curves on 2 wheels.  Roads that in Aurora would be one way handle big tour buses, cars, vespas and people (taking pictures) walking everywhere.  

The artwork is phenomenal, statues everywhere, a number of them by Salvatore Dali.  The churches here are impressive, painted ceilings, decorative crosses and statues to the saints. I can't imagine what the Vatican will be like.

We walk from the top of Sorrento, where our hotel is, to the sea.  A little worried about the walk back up.  Figure worst scenario we can get a cab.  There are vendors everywhere. They even own the beaches, where for 12 euro you can rent a chair and a change room.  In between the private beach is a public dock not much bigger than our cottage dock, it does have change rooms and showers. 

Time for lunch before the walk back. Split a pizza, beer and mimosa at a quaint little place on the pier.  There were 2 restaurants beside each other with 2 very cute Italians trying to entice people into their cafes, I had more fun watching them chirp each other then watching the marina. Lol

Most exciting part of the day was finding out that for 1 euro you could ride an elevator up the inside of the cliff, this got us halfway back to our hotel,  major relief :). Lovely walk back finding all sorts of little alleys, with no cars just people. 

Back to the hotel and a wonderful hour relaxing by the pool. The water is cooler than lake muskoka but a much prettier colour.  

That's an olive tree btw.  Yes Jim and I had to go to the top of the pool and slide down each waterfall. I told Jim he couldn't have a rum and coke if he didn't get in the pool.  Lol it worked.  Our motto for this trip is to do something silly everyday.  Might buy Jim a speedo tomorrow. As long as he doesn't put me in a bikini. Lol. Xrated pictures for tomorrow. Lol. Are you reading this kids. Beware.  

So after our swim we pop up to the lounge over looking the Tyrhheian sea so I can use the wifi. Ok let's have 2 glasses of chianti.  Future reference 2 glasses of chianti and tip come to 25 euros.  Back up to the room and down we walk to the wine store. 2 bottles of wine and 1 prosecco for 32 euros.  Thinking I will start my day with prosecco rather than lemon water from now on.  

Decided to have a wee taste of the San Lorenzo on the balcony before dinner.  It was so good we decided to have another :). Off we headed to dinner at 9 pm, the streets were crazy busy and the first couple of restaurants we looked at HDTV no seats on their terraces.  So we just kept walking there are literally 100s of restaurants and cafes.  Took an inside seat at .........................  It had a huge antipasto bar and the food was divine.  I had a spinach gnocchi with salmon, Jim had a carbonara and lemon veal and we shared a caprese salad.  Another lovely chianti and the bill came to 100 euros including tip.  Boy it would be nice to eat like this at home!!!

The waiter made a big mistake and brought us a very refreshing limoncello.  Delish and a wonderful way to finish off the night.  I thought. :). We head back to our hotel and Jim decides we need another limoncello.  The market square and surrounding streets have been closed to vehicular traffic and there are people everywhere.  . 

We find a seat at a cafe on the square and yes order another limoncello.  Below is what happens after 2 limoncellos

Yes you start taking pictures of everything. Lol. I ended up deleting about 20 out of focus and a number of shots of our feet. Lol

The Long and Winding Road of Sorrento

Five years ago in 2008 was when we first started planning this trip.  Circumstances caused us to move it from our 30th anniversary to our 35th.  Now that we are older and wiser the enjoyment level has jumped 200 fold.  Andrew drove us to the airport at 5:30 for a 9 pm flight.  We were in row 49 the last row on the A330 Air Transat flight.  Great seats and a great flight.  We landed  in Rome at 11:30 am.  Hopped on the train to Rome termini where we needed to catch a connecting train  to Napoli.  This train was very busy and very hot, modern but slow.  I'm not sure what I was expecting. But definitely surprised at the degree of neglect.  Rome is a big city and railways are not necessarily the best way to get your first impression of them.  The railway line was dirty, neglected, had homeless people living under bridges, definitely not the pathway of the gods I was expecting.  

While waiting for our connecting train we did some people watching.  What a busy terminal. Locals, business people and lots of tourists.     (Aside. the younger Italian guys sure know how to wear a suit, Hubba Hubba).  The train to Napoli was a high speed train travelling at 250 Khm at some points.  Again the line was showing the industrial side of Italy.  Finally we (excuse me Jim was sound asleep, yeah he needed it) started seeing mountains and the coast was approaching.  

Grab our bags and start scrambling off the train.  At the bottom of the steps is this older Italian guy asking if we need a taxi.  Sure I say, next thing I know he grabs our 2 bags and we are running to keep up with him.  Does he go to the front of the terminal. Oh no, we go though some shops, out the side door, down an alley and voila he drops us off at a van.  Jim shakes his hand with the tip,  I am thinking "oh no” Jim has given him some change, but thankfully no it is 5 euros.  I think cool, all he had to do was pull our bags out to his friends car.  Well the guy goes mental as only an Italian can.  Arms in the air, "what's a this,  givea mea 20", youa crazy". Jim hands over the 20. Doesn't look at me just gets in the car no discussion. Lol.  Now the taxi driver passes him a card and says "this is the price". Again Jim doesn't look at me and says "go get a me to my hotel". Lol 165 euros later with a great ride down the coast, through 3 crazy long tunnels under the mountains, switchbacks, a stop for lemonade and some pictures of the beautiful town of Meta and we were deposited in front of our hotel.

Left Aurora at 530, arrive at our hotel at 530 the next day.  Bags are up in the room and we head down to a marvellous balcony overlooking Mt Vesuvius and the Tyrreian Sea. Bellissimo.

Back up to the room and a 2 hour nap and we get ready for dinner. We asked the concierge for a recommendation and he asked us "What kind of food?"  Hello Italian would be good.   A shuttle bus took us down to Vela Bianco for a wonderful Italian dinner with the locals. Thanks to our concierge for this choice.  Homemade lasagne, caprese salad for me while Jim had a fresh shrimp salad, penne in a Gorgonzola and veal for Jim. A great bottle of chianti all for 95 euros. A final drink on the patio and off to bed.